North East Photography Expedition

Route: Arrive Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport, Guwahati; transfer to hotel

Your driver meets you at the airport and takes you to the hotel. Use the afternoon to check gear and charge batteries.

If you land in time, the sunset cruise on the Brahmaputra is the first shoot of the trip. The river is wide here, and in the dry season the low sun sits behind fishing boats and sandbanks. A short telephoto lens is useful.

Experience of the Day

• Airport pickup and check-in

• Brahmaputra sunset cruise

• Kit check and briefing

Food

Recommended: Paradise, a long-running Guwahati restaurant, for an Assamese thali.

Must-Try: Masor tenga, a light, sour fish curry.

Activities to Do

• Rest after the flight

• Sunset cruise, if you arrive in time

Route: Guwahati to Kohora, Kaziranga, about 200 km, 4.5 to 5 hours

The road runs east through rice fields and tea gardens. Lunch is at the lodge.

The afternoon jeep safari goes into the Western range at Bagori, which has the highest density of rhinos in the park. Open grassland and lakes give clean backgrounds, and the late sun comes in low across the grass. Kaziranga became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, and the 2022 census counted 2,613 greater one-horned rhinos.

Note on shooting in Kaziranga

You shoot from the jeep and may not step out inside the park. A lens of 100-400 mm or longer is the most useful. A bean bag steadies the lens on the jeep's side better than a tripod. Camera fees are included.

Experience of the Day

• Drive through the Brahmaputra plain

• First safari in the Western range

• Late light on rhinos and swamp deer

Food

Recommended: Lunch and dinner at your lodge.

Must-Try: Duck with ash gourd, a traditional Assamese dish, where the lodge kitchen offers it.

Activities to Do

• Western range jeep safari

Route: Kohora (Central range) and Bagori (Western range)

The dawn safari runs through the Central range. On winter mornings, mist lies over the lakes, and rhinos and wild buffalo stand half hidden in it. The best light lasts until about 9:30 am.

Kaziranga looks the way it does because of the Brahmaputra. Every monsoon the river floods most of the park and leaves fresh silt, which feeds the tall grass the rhinos eat. From about February, the forest department burns back the old grass, and the fresh green shoots draw animals into the open. That is why late-season visits often give clearer views.

The afternoon returns to the Western range for a second try at the best late light.

Experience of the Day

• Mist over the Central range lakes at dawn

• Second Western range safari

• Rhinos, buffalo, elephants and swamp deer

Food

Recommended: Meals at the lodge.

Must-Try: Assam tea, plain or with milk, from the gardens around the park.

Activities to Do

• Central range jeep safari

• Western range jeep safari

• Midday image review

Route: Agaratoli (Eastern range), Ghorakati (Burapahar range) and a nearby tea garden

The morning goes to the Eastern range at Agaratoli, the best range for birds. Spot-billed pelicans nest here, and the wetlands draw storks, ducks and raptors in winter.

The afternoon safari is in Burapahar, the hilly, forested range in the west. It gives a different look from the grassland, with forest birds and primates.

End the day in a tea garden near the park. The rows of bushes and the shade trees make strong lines in low light, and the pluckers may be at work in season. Ask before photographing them.

Note on safaris

Slots and routes are set by the forest department, and sightings are never guaranteed. This plan uses jeep safaris only, not elephant-back rides.

Experience of the Day

• Eastern range birds and wetlands

• Burapahar forest safari

• Tea garden at golden hour

Food

Recommended: Meals at the lodge.

Must-Try: Pitha, Assamese rice cakes, often served at tea time.

Activities to Do

• Eastern range jeep safari

• Burapahar jeep safari

• Tea-garden walk

Route: Kaziranga to Shillong via Nagaon and Jorabat, about 255 km, 6 to 7 hours

The road runs west across Assam and climbs into Meghalaya. Shillong sits at about 1,500 metres among pine forest.

Stop at Umiam Lake on the way in. At blue hour, the water and the wooded islands take on an even, cool tone that suits a wide lens and a tripod.

Note on the long drive

This is the longest road day. Occasional tensions on the Assam–Meghalaya border have been reported in some districts, and BizareXpedition checks local conditions before the drive.

Experience of the Day

• Climb from the plain to the Khasi Hills

• Umiam Lake at blue hour

• Evening in Police Bazaar

Food

Recommended: Trattoria in Police Bazaar, a small, well-known spot for Khasi food.

Must-Try: Jadoh, red rice cooked with pork.

Activities to Do

• Drive to Shillong

• Blue-hour shoot at Umiam

Route: Shillong to Mawlynnong, Riwai and Dawki, and back to Shillong, about 200 km round trip

Start at Mawlynnong, named Asia's cleanest village by Discover India magazine in 2003. Stone paths, bamboo bins and flowering gardens make good detail shots. A short walk away, the Riwai root bridge is the first living bridge of the trip.

Reach Dawki by late morning. The Umngot is clear in the dry season because it carries almost no silt. With the sun high, light passes straight through the water and lights the riverbed, so the boats seem to float. The effect fades as the sun drops, which is why this is the one midday shoot of the trip. A polarising filter helps cut the surface glare.

Note on villages and the border

Mawlynnong and Riwai charge small entry fees, which are included. Ask before photographing people. Dawki is on the Bangladesh border; do not photograph the border post or security staff.

Experience of the Day

• Mawlynnong lanes and gardens

• Riwai root bridge

• The Umngot at Dawki from the bank and a boat

Food

Recommended: A simple Khasi lunch at a village kitchen near Dawki or Mawlynnong.

Must-Try: Fresh pineapple and local oranges from the roadside in season.

Activities to Do

• Village walk in Mawlynnong

• Short walk to the Riwai bridge

• Boat ride on the Umngot

Route: Shillong city, then Laitlum Canyons, about 24 km each way

The morning is for the Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Cultures. Its seven floors cover the peoples of the North East, and the rooftop gives a wide view over the city.

Laitlum means 'end of the hills'. The canyons are often in fog in the morning and evening, so the afternoon usually gives the clearest view. Layered ridges drop into deep green valleys, and the village of Rasong sits far below, reached by about 3,000 steps. Stay for the last light, when the ridges turn warm.

Experience of the Day

• Don Bosco Museum and its rooftop view

• Laitlum Canyons in afternoon light

• Last light over the ridges

Food

Recommended: A café in Laitkor or Police Bazaar.

Must-Try: Dohneiiong, pork cooked with black sesame.

Shopping

Bara Bazaar (Iewduh), one of the largest traditional markets in the North East, for street photography and Khasi produce.

Activities to Do

• Museum visit

• Canyon viewpoint shoot

Route: Shillong to Sohra, about 55 km, 1.5 to 2 hours plus stops

The road crosses open grassland on the Sohra plateau. Stop at Mawkdok for the view into the Dympep valley.

Cherrapunji once set the world record for rain in a single year, in 1860 to 1861, and the plateau is still one of the wettest places on earth. In the dry season the falls are thinner, but the air is clearer.

Shoot Nohkalikai Falls, then walk through Mawsmai Cave. End at the Seven Sisters Falls viewpoint for sunset, looking out towards the plains of Bangladesh.

Note on Mawsmai Cave

The cave has narrow, low sections. Carry a small camera only; leave the big bag in the car.

Experience of the Day

• Mawkdok viewpoint

• Nohkalikai Falls

• Sunset at Seven Sisters Falls

Food

Recommended: Orange Roots, a popular vegetarian restaurant on Sohra's main road.

Must-Try: Pumaloi, a steamed rice cake eaten with Khasi curries.

Activities to Do

• Viewpoints on the plateau

• Mawsmai Cave

• Sunset shoot

Route: Sohra to Tyrna by car (about 30 minutes), then about 3,500 steps down to Nongriat

From Tyrna, stone steps lead down through forest and villages, over steel suspension bridges, to Nongriat. Arrive by early afternoon, settle into the homestay and rest.

The Khasi grow these bridges from the roots of the rubber fig. The roots are trained across a stream, often through the hollow trunk of an areca palm, and left to grow for 15 years or more. Timber rots fast in one of the wettest places on

earth, but a living bridge keeps growing and gets stronger with age. The double-decker at Nongriat is thought to be about 200 years old. In 2022 the root bridges were placed on UNESCO's tentative World Heritage list.

By late afternoon most day visitors have started the climb back up. That is when you have the double-decker bridge and its pools almost to yourself. The bridge sits in a shaded gorge, so bring a tripod and expect slow shutter speeds.

Note on the homestay

Nongriat has no road. The homestay is simple, with basic rooms and shared facilities, the same in every tier. Pack a small overnight bag; the porter carries it with your gear. The steps are steep and can be slippery.

The Human Story

Nongriat's families still use the root bridges to reach their fields and the next village. The homestays and guides are local, so the money from your night stays in the village.

Experience of the Day

• Descent through Khasi villages

• The double-decker bridge in the evening

• A night in a village homestay

Food

Recommended: A home-cooked dinner at the homestay, usually rice, dal and vegetables.

Must-Try: Local tea at the small shops along the steps.

Activities to Do

• Trek down to Nongriat

• Evening shoot at the bridge

• Night in the village

Route: Nongriat, optional Rainbow Falls, then about 3,500 steps up to Tyrna and back to Sohra

Be at the bridge at first light. Mist often hangs in the gorge in the early morning, and the pools are still.

Strong walkers can continue to Rainbow Falls, about 1.5 to 2 hours further on, where the spray catches the late-morning sun. Otherwise, start the climb back after breakfast. The walk up is the hard part of the whole trip; take it slowly.

The afternoon is free at the hotel in Sohra to rest and back up images.

Experience of the Day

• The bridge at dawn

• Optional Rainbow Falls

• The climb back to Tyrna

Food

Recommended: Breakfast at the homestay; lunch back in Sohra.

Must-Try: A hot Khasi meal after the climb.

Activities to Do

• Dawn shoot

• Climb to Tyrna

• Image backup and rest

Optional Nearby Excursions

• Rainbow Falls, for strong walkers who start early (adds 3 to 4 hours)

Route: Sohra to Guwahati, about 150 km, 4 to 4.5 hours

The road returns through Shillong and down to the Assam plain. The afternoon is free for rest, laundry and image review before the flight to Sikkim.

If you want one more subject, Kamakhya Temple stands on Nilachal Hill above the city, with a wide view over the Brahmaputra. It is an active temple; photography is restricted inside, and your guide will explain where you can shoot.

Experience of the Day

• Drive down from the Khasi Hills

• Free afternoon

• Optional Kamakhya Temple

Food

Recommended: Dinner at your hotel or an Assamese restaurant in the city.

Must-Try: Khar, a dish made with an alkaline extract from dried banana peel.

Shopping

Assam silk (muga and eri) from a government emporium in the city.

Activities to Do

• Drive to Guwahati

• Rest and image review

Route: Fly Guwahati to Bagdogra (about 1 hour 5 minutes), then drive to Gangtok, about 125 km, 4 to 5 hours

A morning flight takes you to Bagdogra. Your Sikkim driver meets you there. The road follows the Teesta river up into the hills; at Rangpo you enter Sikkim and your Restricted Area Permit is checked.

In the evening, walk MG Marg, Gangtok's car-free main street. At blue hour the shop lights come on against the dark hills.

Note on the Sikkim permit

Every foreign national needs a free Restricted Area Permit to enter Sikkim. BizareXpedition applies for it before you travel, using your passport and Indian visa details.

Experience of the Day

• Teesta river drive into Sikkim

• MG Marg at blue hour

Food

Recommended: Taste of Tibet on MG Marg for momos and noodle soups.

Must-Try: Thukpa, a Tibetan noodle soup.

Activities to Do

• Flight to Bagdogra

• Drive to Gangtok

• Evening street shoot

Route: Tashi View Point, Rumtek Monastery (about 24 km) and Enchey Monastery

Tashi View Point sits just north of Gangtok and faces the Kangchenjunga range. On clear mornings, the summit catches the first sun while the valleys are still dark, and it turns gold and then pink for a few minutes. A 70-200 mm lens lets you fill the frame with the peak. October to December gives the best chance of a clear sky.

After breakfast, drive to Rumtek Monastery, rebuilt by the 16th Karmapa and inaugurated in 1966. The courtyard, prayer flags and monks crossing the yard make good subjects. Photography is not allowed inside the prayer hall.

Finish at Enchey Monastery above the town in the late afternoon.

Note on photographing monks

Ask before photographing monks or people at prayer, and never use flash inside a monastery. Rumtek has armed security at the gate; carry your passport.

Experience of the Day

• Kangchenjunga sunrise from Tashi View Point

• Rumtek Monastery courtyard

• Enchey Monastery

Food

Recommended: A Sikkimese meal at a local restaurant in town.

Must-Try: Gundruk soup, made from fermented greens, and sel roti.

Shopping

The Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom for thangka paintings and carved wooden tables.

Activities to Do

• Sunrise shoot

• Monastery visits

• Evening at leisure

Route: Gangtok to Pelling via Ravangla, about 115 km, 4.5 to 5 hours

The road winds west through South Sikkim. Stop at Buddha Park at Ravangla, where a tall statue of the Buddha stands on a hillside above the valley, with the mountains behind on a clear day.

Pelling sits at about 2,150 metres, facing the Kangchenjunga range across a single deep valley. Arrive in time for the last light. The peaks catch the evening sun from the west and turn pink for a short while after the town is in shade.

Experience of the Day

• Buddha Park at Ravangla

• Mountain roads of South Sikkim

• Kangchenjunga at sunset from Pelling

Food

Recommended: Dinner at your hotel.

Must-Try: Chhurpi, hard yak or cow cheese, sold as a snack.

Activities to Do

• Drive to Pelling

• Buddha Park stop

• Sunset shoot

Route: Pelling, Pemayangtse, Rabdentse and Khecheopalri Lake, about 40 km local

Start with sunrise on the Kangchenjunga from your hotel or a viewpoint in town.

Pemayangtse Monastery, founded in 1705, stands on a ridge just outside Pelling with the range behind it. Below it are the ruins of Rabdentse, the capital of the Sikkim kingdom from 1670 to 1814. Walk through the stone walls and chortens with the mountains as a backdrop.

In the afternoon, drive to Khecheopalri Lake, a still, forest-ringed lake held sacred by Buddhists and Hindus. Prayer flags line the path to the water. End the day at the Chenrezig statue and glass skywalk, opened in 2018.

Note on Khecheopalri Lake

The lake is a place of worship. Keep quiet, walk clockwise, and do not touch the water or feed the fish.

Experience of the Day

• Kangchenjunga sunrise

• Pemayangtse and Rabdentse

• Khecheopalri Lake

Food

Recommended: Dinner at your hotel.

Must-Try: Momos with a fiery tomato and chilli chutney.

Activities to Do

• Sunrise shoot

• Monastery and ruins walk

• Lake visit

Optional Nearby Excursions

• Chenrezig statue and skywalk in Pelling (allow 1 hour)

Route: Pelling to Bagdogra airport, about 135 km, 5 to 5.5 hours

A last look at the mountain at dawn, then the long drive down to the plains. Your driver drops you at Bagdogra airport, which has direct flights to Delhi, Kolkata and other major cities.

Experience of the Day

• Last dawn over the Kangchenjunga

• Airport drop at Bagdogra

Food

Recommended: Breakfast at the hotel before you leave.

Must-Try: A packet of Sikkim or Darjeeling tea for home.

Activities to Do

• Drive to Bagdogra

• Onward flight