India: Zanskar & Markha Combined Trekking Expedition

Your guide and the driver meet you at Leh airport and take you to the hotel. Every flight to Leh lands in the morning, because winds pick up later in the day at an airport about 3,250 m high. The rest of the day is quiet.

Leh is at 3,500 m. The Ladakh tourism advisory asks new arrivals to rest on the first day and to add no more than about 500 m of sleeping height a day after that. In the evening you meet the guide over dinner, and the guide goes through the eighteen days. Drink plenty of fluids and skip alcohol tonight.

Experience of the Day

–  Met at Leh airport by the guide and the driver.

–  A full rest day at 3,500 m, as the Ladakh tourism advisory asks of new arrivals.

–  A welcome dinner and a talk through the eighteen days.

Food

Dinner at the Leh hotel; breakfast is included, and lunch is as you choose.

Activities to Do

Light rest only today. No exercise is planned on arrival day.

Route: Leh hotel – Shey – Thiksey – Leh hotel

The morning is easy. Shey, 15 km from Leh, has a palace and gompa built in 1655, with a copper-gilt Shakyamuni about 12 m high. Thiksey, 19 km from Leh, is a Gelug monastery of the mid-15th century, with twelve storeys rising up a hill and a Maitreya about 15 m high in a temple built in 1970. Both are short visits at a slow pace.

In the afternoon the guide holds the trail briefing: the stages, the sleeping heights, how each day starts and ends, and the rules for turning back. The assistant guide and the cook join, so that you have met the whole team before the trail. Your kit is checked against the list, and a first oximeter reading is taken. Anything missing can be bought in the bazaar.

Experience of the Day

–  The Shakyamuni at Shey, about 12 m high.

–  Thiksey's twelve storeys and its 15 m Maitreya.

–  The trail briefing, with the whole team present, and a first oximeter reading.

Food

Breakfast and dinner at the Leh hotel; lunch is as you choose.

Activities to Do

Two short monastery visits, a kit check and the briefing.

Shopping

The main bazaar sells trekking socks, gloves, hats and sun cream, if anything is missing.

Route: Leh – Chilling – walk to Skiu

The vehicle takes you from Leh through the Indus valley to Nimmu and then up the Zanskar gorge to Chilling, about 65 km. A cable trolley or a bridge, depending on its present state, takes you over the Zanskar River, and the trail begins on the far bank. The walk to Skiu is gentle, along the Markha River.

Skiu lies at about 3,400 m, a little lower than Leh. Its monastery and tea tents are the first on the trail. You sleep in a village home, and the family cooks supper. The horses carry the main bags, and you walk with a day pack.

Experience of the Day

–  The Zanskar gorge road to Chilling.

–  The crossing of the Zanskar and the first stretch of the Markha River.

–  Supper with a village family at Skiu.

Food

Breakfast at the Leh hotel; a packed lunch on the trail; dinner at the homestay.

Activities to Do

A walk of 3 to 4 hours to Skiu.

Route: Skiu – Markha

The trail follows the river upstream through barley fields and small villages, with a tea break at Pendse. It passes Humarge and Sara, crosses a low rise marked with chortens and prayer flags, and reaches Markha, the biggest village in the valley, at about 3,700 m.

The river is crossed several times. In July and August, when glacier melt is at its peak, crossings can be knee-deep and very cold. Footbridges carry some of them, and the crew and horses take the rest. Wear sandals or waterproof socks for the wet crossings and keep boots dry.

Experience of the Day

–  Barley fields and small villages along the river.

–  A tea stop at Pendse.

–  Several river crossings.

Food

Breakfast and a packed lunch; dinner at the homestay.

Activities to Do

A walk of 7 to 8 hours, with rest stops.

The Human Story: The Kitchen at Markha

In the valley's homes the kitchen is where the day begins, with butter tea, barley flour and a stove in the middle of the room. Families run the homestays and cook for each group that arrives. Ask your host about the day, and ask before photographing anyone.

Route: Markha – Hankar

From Markha the trail passes the village gompa, then crosses the river and runs through fields and past long mani walls to Hankar, at about 3,900 m, the final permanent village of the valley. Above Hankar lie the gompa and the ruins of the old village. The day is short, and the afternoon is for rest and tea.

From here the valley narrows and the trail begins to climb. The evening oximeter readings are taken before dinner, and the guide gives the plan for tomorrow.

Experience of the Day

–  Markha's village gompa.

–  Long mani walls on the way to Hankar.

–  The gompa and the old village above Hankar.

Food

Breakfast; a packed lunch; dinner at the homestay.

Activities to Do

A walk of about 4 hours, and a slow afternoon.

Route: Hankar – Thachungtse

The trail leaves Hankar and climbs up the side valley toward Nimaling. Thachungtse is a camp at about 4,300 m, near the stream that comes down from the plateau. The crew goes ahead and pitches camp, with a tent for the two of you, a dining tent and a toilet tent.

The night here is about 400 m above Hankar, and it is the one to watch. If either of you is struggling with the height, the group stays at Hankar and the guide adjusts the plan.

Experience of the Day

–  The side valley toward Nimaling.

–  A camp at about 4,300 m, with a tent for the two of you.

–  The evening oximeter readings.

Food

Breakfast; a packed lunch; dinner in the dining tent.

Activities to Do

A walk of about 5 hours, and a camp evening.

Route: Thachungtse – Nimaling

The trail climbs gently across a broad pasture to Nimaling, at about 4,700 m, in the shadow of Kang Yatse, 6,400 m. Livestock graze the grass in summer, and the camp sits among them.

The assistant guide joins the group here for the pass. The afternoon is for rest, with an optional slow walk up the pasture for the view. Eat well and drink more than you think you need. Tomorrow starts before dawn.

Experience of the Day

–  The broad pasture at Nimaling, with Kang Yatse above.

–  An optional slow walk up the pasture.

–  An early night before the pass.

Food

Breakfast; lunch and dinner in the dining tent.

Activities to Do

A short walk of 2 to 4 hours, and a rest afternoon.

Route: Nimaling – Kongmaru La – Chuskurmo

The climb to Kongmaru La is long and steady, and the height is felt with every step. Published heights for the pass run from 5,100 m to 5,260 m, and at about 5,200 m it is the high point of the whole expedition. From the top the Zanskar mountains fill the view.

The descent is steep, with loose scree and rock, and drops about 1,000 m to Chuskurmo, at about 4,050 m. You camp here, a night lower than Nimaling, and the final walk to the road is left for tomorrow. Splitting the end of the trail keeps the pass day from ending a very long walk.

Experience of the Day

–  Kongmaru La, at about 5,200 m, with the Zanskar range in view.

–  A steep scree descent of about 1,000 m.

–  A camp at Chuskurmo, a night below Nimaling.

Food

An early breakfast; a packed lunch; dinner in the dining tent.

Activities to Do

A walk of 7 to 9 hours, the long day of the Markha trail.

Route: Chuskurmo – Shang Sumdo – Hemis – Leh

The trail follows the valley down through Chokdo village to the road-head at Shang Sumdo, at about 3,700 m. The vehicle waits there, and the Markha crew say their goodbyes.

The drive takes you to Hemis, about 45 km from Leh. The monastery was re-established in 1672 by the Ladakhi king Sengge Namgyal and follows the Drukpa lineage. It lies inside Hemis National Park, the same park you have just walked through. From Hemis the road follows the Indus to Leh, and you reach the hotel by afternoon. A hot shower, laundry and a rest are the plan. The guide checks the kit for the second walk, and the new crew meets the vehicle at Lamayuru tomorrow.

Experience of the Day

–  Chokdo village and the road-head at Shang Sumdo.

–  Hemis Monastery, re-established in 1672.

–  A hot shower and a hotel bed in Leh.

Food

Breakfast in camp; lunch is as you choose; dinner at the Leh hotel.

Activities to Do

A walk of about 4 hours, a drive of about 2 hours, and a monastery stop.

Shopping

The main bazaar has pashmina, silver jewellery and prayer flags, if you have an hour before dinner.

Route: Leh – Lamayuru – Prinkiti La – Wanla

The day starts at about 6:30 am. The road runs west along the Indus and then up to Lamayuru, a Drikung Kagyu monastery above the pale, wind-cut ground known as the Moonland. Its temple Seng-ge-sgang is credited to Rinchen Zangpo. You stop for a short visit and an early lunch, and meet the Zanskar crew and horses.

The walk climbs to Prinkiti La, at about 3,725 to 3,750 m, then drops to Wanla, at about 3,100 to 3,250 m. Wanla's monastery sits inside an old castle built by the Ladakhi king Lhachen Ngaglug in the 12th century, with the temple added in the 14th. It belongs to the Drigung Kagyu order and is a sub-monastery of Lamayuru. Its three-storeyed Avalokiteshvara temple is one of the earliest Drigung Kagyu prayer chambers to survive in Ladakh.

Experience of the Day

–  Lamayuru monastery above the Moonland.

–  Prinkiti La, with Lamayuru below you.

–  Wanla's castle temple and its Avalokiteshvara.

Food

Breakfast at the Leh hotel; lunch on the trail or at Lamayuru; dinner at the homestay.

Activities to Do

A drive of 3 to 3.5 hours and a walk of 3 to 4 hours

Route: Wanla – Franji La – Hanupatta

The trail climbs the Wanla river up a narrow gorge, crossing the stream several times. The water is lowest in the morning and rises as the day warms, so the guide sets an early start and scouts each crossing. The path crosses a low rise, Franji La, at about 3,400 m, and then climbs to Hanupatta, where the camp sits beside a stream.

Tonight is about 520 to 670 m above Wanla, a little more than the 500 m a day that the advisory suggests. By now you have spent ten days at or above Leh's height and crossed the Kongmaru La, and the guide watches each reading this evening.

Experience of the Day

–  The Wanla gorge, with several stream crossings.

–  Franji La, at about 3,400 m.

–  The evening readings at Hanupatta.

Food

Breakfast; a packed lunch; dinner in the dining tent.

Activities to Do

A walk of 5 to 6 hours, with wet crossings.

Route: Hanupatta – Sirsir La – Photoksar

Sirsir La, at about 4,800 m, is a climb of about 1,000 m from the camp. The trail crosses the pass and drops through a valley to Photoksar, a village of stone houses clustered under a cliff. The road to this village crosses the Sirsir La too, and snow closes it in winter.

The assistant guide is with the group today. Tonight's home has a fixed menu and simple beds, and the afternoon is for rest before the pass of tomorrow.

Experience of the Day

–  Sirsir La, at about 4,800 m.

–  A descent to Photoksar's stone houses.

–  A home-cooked supper with a Photoksar family.

Food

Breakfast; a packed lunch; dinner at the homestay.

Activities to Do

A walk of 5 to 7 hours, with a climb of about 1,000 m.

Route: Photoksar – Bumiktse La (about 4,200 m) – Singge La (about 5,000 m) – camp below the pass

Singge La is a high crossing. Sources give its height anywhere from 4,950 to 5,230 m, and a figure of about 5,000 m is used here. The start is before sunrise, and the climb is steady on loose ground, with a final steeper section near the top. The top has long views over the Zanskar range, and the descent is on loose scree and then a rocky valley.

Bumiktse La, at about 4,200 m, is the first crossing of the day, and the camp lies on the far side of Singge La, about 350 to 600 m above Photoksar. This is the night to watch. The guide takes readings at sunset and before bed, and the assistant guide, oxygen and a satellite phone travel with the group.

Experience of the Day

–  Bumiktse La, at about 4,200 m.

–  Singge La, at about 5,000 m, with views over the Zanskar range.

–  A camp on the far side, with readings at sunset and before bed.

Food

An early breakfast; a packed lunch; dinner in the dining tent.

Activities to Do

A walk of about 7 hours, starting before sunrise, with a set turn-back time.

Route: Camp – Kiupa La (about 3,850 m) – Murgum La (about 4,100 m) – Lingshed

The trail climbs and drops across two smaller passes, Kiupa La at about 3,850 m and Murgum La at about 4,100 m, before it turns down to Lingshed. The camp is higher than the village, so the day ends below the height where it began.

Lingshed monastery was founded in the 1440s by Changsems Sherab Zangpo, a student of Je Tsongkhapa, and belongs to the Gelug order. It has about 60 monks, and it also runs a school for the surrounding villages. It is set among fields on a hillside, and the village around it has only homestays for guests. The walk ends here, and the crew and horses part from you.

Experience of the Day

–  Kiupa La and Murgum La.

–  Lingshed monastery and its school.

–  An evening with a Lingshed family.

Food

Breakfast in camp; a packed lunch; dinner at the homestay.

Activities to Do

A walk of about 6 hours, and a visit to the monastery.

The Human Story: A School Above the Passes

Lingshed's monastery doubles as a community school, and its monks and teachers serve the villages of the Trans-Sengge-La region, which are cut off from the main roads for much of the year. Solar microgrids installed in 2016 bring electric light to the monastery. Tonight's family is part of that community, and the welcome here is simple: butter tea, fresh barley bread, a warm kitchen.

Route: Lingshed – Zangla – Padum

After a morning at the monastery, the Zanskar-registered vehicle takes the track from Lingshed to Zangla, about 39 km by published distances, and then on to Padum, about 35 km further. Zangla is the old seat of a small Zanskar kingdom, with a palace on a rock above the village. The valley widens, and the road runs between barley fields and low white houses.

Padum, the valley's small capital, is at about 3,600 m. It has a bazaar, a bank, and the Gelug monastery of Karsha a short drive away, about 10 km, which you can visit if the afternoon allows.

Experience of the Day

–  Lingshed monastery's morning, if prayers are in session.

–  Zangla and its palace on a rock.

–  The widening Zanskar valley, and Padum.

Food

Breakfast at the homestay; lunch on the road is as you choose; dinner at the Padum hotel.

Activities to Do

A drive of 4 to 6 hours, with a stop at Zangla and a visit to Karsha if time allows.

Shopping

Padum's small bazaar sells Zanskari wool, dried apricots and simple handicrafts.

Route: Padum – Pensi La – Rangdum – Parkachik – Panikhar – Sankoo – Kargil

The road climbs out of Zanskar over the Pensi La, at about 4,400 m, the pass between Zanskar and Suru, with the Drang-Drung Glacier close to the road, a long tongue of ice. Rangdum monastery stands on a steep hill at about 4,031 m, at the head of the Suru valley. It was built in the 18th century under King Tsewang Namgyal II and belongs to the Gelug order.

The Suru River valley is green where Ladakh is usually dry, fed by glacier melt from Nun and Kun, two peaks over 7,000 m that stand on the skyline from Panikhar onward. Nun, at 7,135 m, is the higher, and Kun, at 7,077 m, sits just north of it.

The villages along this stretch, Parkachik, Panikhar and Sankoo, are Muslim, part of Kargil district's Dard and Balti population, a different community from Buddhist Leh and Zanskar. Kargil, at about 2,700 m, is a town on the Suru, and a Leh vehicle meets you there.

Experience of the Day

–  Pensi La and the Drang-Drung Glacier beside the road.

–  Rangdum monastery on its hill.

–  Nun and Kun on the skyline from Panikhar.

Food

Breakfast at the Padum hotel; lunch at Rangdum or a roadside dhaba is as you choose; dinner at the Kargil hotel.

Activities to Do

A long drive of 8 to 10 hours with short stops.

Route: Kargil – Mulbekh – Namika La – Fotu La – Lamayuru – Leh

The road runs east from Kargil past Mulbekh, where a Maitreya relief is carved into a roadside rock, and scholars date it somewhere between the 1st and 8th centuries. It then crosses the Namika La and the Fotu La, and passes Lamayuru, the monastery you walked toward on Day 10. The road follows the Indus down to Leh.

Tonight is a hotel night with a farewell dinner, and the guide and assistant guide join you. If a trail day was lost to weather or a river, the plan has no spare day to absorb it, and the notes below say how that is handled.

Experience of the Day

–  Mulbekh's Maitreya relief.

–  The Namika La and Fotu La.

–  A farewell dinner with the guide and the assistant guide.

Food

Breakfast at the Kargil hotel; lunch near Lamayuru is as you choose; a Ladakhi farewell dinner in Leh.

Activities to Do

A drive of 6 to 8 hours, with short stops.

Shopping

Leh's main bazaar sells pashmina, silver jewellery and prayer flags.

Route: Leh hotel – Leh airport

The driver takes you to the airport. Every flight out of Leh leaves in the morning. If you are staying on in Ladakh, today is the day to move on to your next stop.

Guests with an evening international flight from Delhi can connect the same day. The Leh–Delhi flight takes about 1 hour 30 minutes.

Experience of the Day

–  Transfer to Leh airport for a morning flight.

Food

Breakfast at the hotel; other meals as you choose.

Activities to Do

None scheduled. The day is kept free to flex around your flight time.